Golden Circle Excursion

Saturday, 11 September
9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.

Picture above: “I recently visited Iceland for a long weekend break, and was awed by the culture and scenery of the island. This was the first stop on the classic ‘Golden Circle’ tour of Þhingvellir, Geysir and Gullfoss: Þhingvellir is an extraordinary place even by Icelandic standards. Here you can see the river Öxará flowing over a cliff which marks the edge of the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian plates: you couldn’t ask for a better demonstration of continental drift if you tried. Apparently the valley gets wider by 2cm every year: I can empathise with this case of middle-aged spread.”
(El’s note: He (she?) has the most astonishing 360-degree) of this picture/area. Click on the flash symbol below the entry for a flash version. Amazing!)

What to bring

• Binoculars
• Camera
• Hat
• Comfortable footwear
• Warm clothing
• Waterproof clothing

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An entire page on the impossible Icelandic language, with helpful traveler’s phrases.

Icy Jewels Golden Circle Tour

Frank, who is arranging the buses, reminds us that the list for the Icy Jewels bus tour will reopen in July, and there is lots of space. So, keep an eye on the Cruise Critic thread and you can sign up then.

Here is the Icy Jewels sign-up page.

Gullfoss

Gullfoss waterfall is not Iceland’s tallest (Glymur in the west) nor its largest (Dettifoss in the north), but it is certainly its most famous due to its location only about 100km east of the Icelandic capital Reykjavík.

The waterfall has formed where the Hvítá river, the outflow of the inland glacier lake Hvítárvatn, streams into a deep chasm, witness of Iceland’s violent geological activities. The sight is very spectacular, mainly because the river first makes a 10m drop, then turns at a right angle, before taking its final 30m tumble over the edge of the chasm and continuing its way for 3km through the 20m wide crevice. An average of 100m³/s flows over the edge, so it definitely deserves its name, which means “Golden Falls” in Icelandic.

From the car park it is only a 5 min. walk to the falls on a slippery track along the fissure (take care as there is no fence). 10km south lies that other great attraction, Geysir.

The Golden Waterfalls (Gullfoss) are situated in the upper part of River Hvita. The water cascades down two steps, one 11 m high, and the other 22 m, into the 2,5 km long canyon below. This canyon was created at the end of the Ice Age by catastrophic flood waves and is lengthened by 25 cm a year by the constant erosion.

Above the waterfalls are dangerous rapids. History tells us about daredevils, who forded the river there. One of them was a young man, who watched his father?s sheep every summer on the west bank of the river. On the other side, a young woman did the same thing for her family. They started shouting across the river and became acquainted that way. Eventually the young man proposed to the girl across the river and she accepted on the condition, that he came right away across to seal their agreement. He did that and of course, they lived happily ever after.

In 1930 and 1948, the river was flooded to the brim of the canyons and both times bridges further down river were swept away. Early in the 20th century the farmer of Brattholt, who owned the water rights of the river contracted them to an English firm for a hydroelectric power station. The farmer?s daughter opposed this and even threatened to throw herself into the foaming water to prevent this accident. She fought bravely alone until a young lawyer, who later became the country?s first president, came to her aid. Together they managed to save the waterfalls and she was commemorated by a monument in the canyon by the waterfalls in 1978.

In the canyon, alternating strata of lavas and moraines (till/tillite) are obvious and tell us about warm and cold epochs of the Ice Age.

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Gulfoss (Golden Falls) is a two-tiered waterfall. It’s loud and sprays mist high into the air. The light dusting of snow on the rocks surrounding the falls seemed to magnify its beauty. There is a path that leads to some rocks overlooking the upper tier of the falls. The slushy ice made the path slippery and we got wet from the mist of the falls but it was an incredible view when we reached the overlook.

Instead of climbing down towards the edge of the falls, I think it is wiser to climb up the steep flight of steps to view Gullfoss from atop a hill. Great pictures to be had here and you also get to see your first glaciers at the horizon.

Þingvellir and Gullfoss pix

The oft-photographed Gullfoss (“Golden Falls”) is a double-cascade waterfall that is considered one of Europe’s most powerful waterfalls and is also one of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions. The glacial Hvita River flows down a curved three step staircase before plunging powerfully down the double cascade. The first cascade is 11 meters high, and the second is 21 meters high, while the amount of water going down the waterfall averages 140 cubic meters per second. The water cascades into a deep and dark crevase, producing a loud roar, while the sprays create a beautiful rainbow effect.

The land surrounding Gullfoss is about 200 metres above sea level.

The Gullfoss Waterfall, which is also known as the Golden waterfall, is the most renowned waterfall in southwest Iceland. This breathtaking beauty is also one of the celebrated natural wonders of the world. It is situated on the Canyon of Hvita River or the White river. The Hvita River has three large steps ending at the spectacular Gullfoss falls. Gullfoss Waterfalls are two separate falls, one above the other. The top one or the upper step is 11 meters high; the other is 21 meters high. Its water can flow at an approximate 80 cubic meters per second during winter to about 140 cubic meters per second during summer. The greatest flood to strike the falls was recorded to have an astounding 2000 cubic meters per second outflow of water.

Rainbows often crown the majestic sight of the Hvita River diving in the Gullfoss falls. The area is blessed with lush vegetation beginning from lichens on rocks to small blueberry shrubs, and ending in wooly willows as its finale. There are numerous guided tourist trips offered by the locals. The falls was originally planned to supply electric power by turning it into a hydroelectric plant. The Gullfoss falls was found out to have the capability to produce massive amount of electricity. It is believed that because of the devoted pilgrimage of a farmer’s daughter to preserve the natural beauty of the falls, the plan was surprisingly stopped. Instead of a power plant, a nature reserve was built. A monument of this brave woman was erected in the area in 1978.

Less than an hour's drive away from Þingvellir, in the "Golden Circle" tourist area, you'll find Gullfoss ("Golden Falls," pronounced "KOOTL-foss). This is a small national park, protecting only the waterfalls and surrounding area. There is only a short tourist trail out to the falls, but you do want to take that as the view is spectacular. Be careful, it's very wet and can be slippery. Iceland being Iceland, the path also ices up pretty easily when it's cold. There's usually a very pretty rainbow over the falls.

Gullfossgjúfur - the canyon

The canyon below Gullfoss extends for some 2.5 kilometres and reaches a depth of 70 metres. Geologists have suggested that it may have been formed in torrential floods caused by so-called jökulhlaup (glacial outbursts), occurring near the end of the last ice age. The end of the last ice age in Iceland. The ocean extends far inland, a continuous glacial cap covers the entire highland area. The river, falling from the edge of the highland area, has not yet formed a canyon.

As the glacier retreats the land rises from the sea. Under the edges of the glacier large masses of meltwater collect, restrained for a time by the ice mass, and then surge forth. During a jökulhlaup (glacial outbursts) the amount of water running seaward during a single 24-hour period can equal a normal flow of up to five years, but the erosive force of such sudden deluges is many times greater.

In the yawning canyon, with grassy hollows along its upper edges, the great river winding between the gravel bars along the bottom appears a mere trickle. These are typical remains of a jökulhlaup (glacial outbursts). Gullfoss is an example of a waterfall forming where the water has followed a fissure in the lava and carved a passageway through it.

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Þingvellir (thing-vell-eer)

This national park and a UNESCO World Heritage site is interesting for two reasons: It is the original site of the longest running parliament in the world and it’s also where the North-American and European continental shelf plates are being torn apart.

Þingvellir National Park was the first stop along the Golden Circle route if you approach from the west from Reykjavik. I reckon it took about 45 minutes to get here from downtown Reykjavik, maybe less since we stopped frequently for photo shoots.

The first thing that astounded us was the very high and very long meeting place of the two continental plates – the North American and European continental plates. Then, of course, we stopped at the charming waterfall. It was quite a hike up, but getting there, it felt like we had entered the Lord of the Rings. The landscape was such that I was so sure that at any corner there would either be a unicorn or an elf.

Our other stop at Þingvellir was at a mysteriously coral-blue lake at the southern end of the park, near the parking lots.

In 930 AD, while most of Europe was mired in feudalism and conflict, chieftains in Iceland gathered in a natural amphitheater to the north and west of Reykjavik and formed the world’s first parliament, the Alþing. The meeting place was called Þingvellir (“parliament plains”), and over the next 300 years representatives journeyed here once a year to elect leaders, argue cases, and settle disputes – sometimes peacefully, sometimes not. Today, Thingvellir National Park remains the ultimate symbol of Iceland’s independence and unity, a landscape inseparable from the national soul.

The founders of the Alþing could hardly have chosen a more appropriate place to meet. Thingvellir tells the story of Iceland’s land as much as it does its people. Nowhere in the country is there a landscape that better vocalizes the geologic history of Iceland. In Þingvellir, you can stand on a bluff and see the Mid-Atlantic ridge as it carves its way North and East into the island’s interior.

The Öxurá (“Axe River,” sort of pronounced “UCKS-oor-ow”) flows over the escarpment in a beautiful waterfall before entering a defile and small pool, after which it eventually flows into the Þingvallavatn (Þingvellir Lake, pronounced “THING-vaht-lah-vahtn”). Women sentenced to be executed were drowned in the pool, while men were either beheaded - - hence, “Axe River” - - or, later, hanged.

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This contains, among other features, the site of the Alþing, the world’s oldest parliament, where Icelanders first congregated in 930 AD. We stopped only on a cliff overlooking the valley in which the Alþing’s meeting place is located. Driving through the valley after our stop, the bus did not even slow down for us to get a better look at the Alþing site. We likewise trundled right over what our guide quaintly referred to as “The Big Splitting”: the chasm where the North American and European tectonic plates are pulling apart. I would think a visible geologic event and the site of the world’s oldest representative legislature would be reason to pull over, but evidently the tour company doesn’t agree.

AlmannagjáA deep fissure caused by the continent drift, Almannagjá ravine is one of the largest in the region – measuring over 7.7 km long. It is a great place for hiking and scrambling. Within the region, the öxará river forms a striking waterfall known as the öxarárfoss.

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Geysir

Geysir is located in the Haukadalur Valley and is the world’s oldest known geyser, with accounts of its activity dating back to the 13th century. It currently erupts 3–4 times per day, with jets of steaming water shooting up to 200 feet in the air. The frequency of its eruptions has varied significantly over the years, ranging from twice an hour to having entire years go by without an eruption. These changes have often been triggered by earthquakes.

Geysir was perhaps one of the most astonishing natural wonders I have ever encountered in my travels. I remember that as we parked our vehicle and walked towards it, I was shocked stiff at how high the water blew out from under the ground and into the air. The super-heated column was visible even 500 metres away where I was!

There is only one Icelandic word that is used in English and that’s “geysir.” All geysers around the world have been named after this grandfather of geysers. Geysir shoots up regularly once every 15–20 minutes. For photo enthusiasts, do not despair. It is EASY to guess when it’s ready to shoot. About 15 seconds before eruption, there would be a huge bluish-green boiling bubble that emerges from the ground. Get the focus ready, your finger at the button, get your partner into the picture – whatever. Do them all within 15 seconds and you will have a great picture!

Across the road next to the parking lot, there is a restaurant as well as a fast food chain that serves very good hamburgers and #1 fries. Behind there is also a museum on geysers as well as a huge souvenir shop.

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Geysir is derived from the word “gjosa” – to gush and if you don’t know what it is – it is a phenomenon caused in volcanic areas by water working its way down the earth’s surface until it comes into contact with hot magna and erupts. Geysir is the largest geyser, formerly extinct it started erupting again in 2002. For some reason, I expected it to do it whilst I was there and was a little disappointed to find out that it only happens every 8–10 hours and wasn’t going to do it whilst we were there (we were on a regular bus service which only stopped there for a while.) At 63m, it is surely a mammoth event and I do regret that we didn’t get to see it – I would plan your journey around the erupting time.

Fortunately it is not the only geyser in the area and next to it is “Stokkur,” easy to find due to the mass of tourists circling around it. This is one that you can rely on, erupting every 8–10 minutes with a varying height, we saw it do its thing properly twice with a couple of mini attempts either side of them.

Even at 15 metres (though it can reach 20m), this is an impressive feat and had me and all the other viewers in awe. I’d never seen one before, not even the tiny ones on Fuerteventura, so it was a novelty and felt like a bit of achievment to have seen it during my life! There’s a notable friendly atmosphere in the circle as well, it’s like witnessing this phenomenon creates a strange bond between the viewers like at a football match (not rival fans obviously!)

Another spectacular reaction of this bubbling steam and water explosion is the rainbows that can be seen around it. It’s so large that videoing and photographing it is quite difficult and it could take a few attempts to get it right, it’s well worth it though.

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The English word geyser comes from the Great Geysir in Iceland. Geysir used to erupt regularly sending steam and boiling water high into the air; however, an earthquake in June 2000 disrupted its regular cycle. Now its eruptions are unpredictable. Fortunately, not far from Geysir, is a geyser named Strokkur. This one erupts every 3 to 8 minutes. We were able to witness this awesome event several times.

The whole area around the geysers had a very mystical look. There was steam rising from the ground and pools of boiling water and mud. There was a stench of sulfur and burnt earth in the air.

After lunch in the restaurant across the road from the geysers we learned about geyser formation in the Geo Center Museum adjacent the restaurant. The highlight of the exhibit was a platform you could stand on that simulates a 5.1 earthquake.

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One of Iceland’s most famous and most visited sights is situated in the geothermal Haukadalur valley. Boiling mud pots and ever-smoking fumaroles are witness of the area location right on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the European and North-American tectonic plates are moving on each other, creating a geological hot spot. The most spectacular witness of the earth’s power, however, has long been the Great Geysir, who gave its name to this phenomenon in many languages including English. Geysir comes from the Icelandic word Gjósa, which means to erupt, and it was probably the first geyser known to mankind, discovered in 1200AD.

The Great Geysir has been an infrequent eruptor since these days, largely dependent on geological conditions. In the 17th-century eruptions tend to be frequent and violent, sending shockwaves through the country. In the 19th century its activity nearly ceased, apart from forced eruptions done by lowering the water level with stones. Beginning of last century its activity was again bigger, largely due to a man-made channel, also lowering the water level. Until the 1990s eruptions were forced by the addition of soap on special occasions like the Icelandic National Day. An earthquake in 2000, however, revived the geyser once again and now it blows its water occasionally, but always much lower than its highest recorded height of 60m.

In the geothermal field, however, is the much more reliable Strokkur geyser, showing its activity a few times an hour, depending on volcanic activity of the area. Its average height is well above 10m. Every few times it erupts two times, but the second blow is always much lower. It is a great sight to see the Strokkur exploding and due to its short intervals you are very likely to notice its activity on your visit. Other geysers are present in the Haukadalur valley, but most of them are near to dormant, apart from the Litli Geysir, gushing out its water almost permanently, but never higher than 50cm.

Strokkur is a geyser that is located in the Haukadalur Valley and is known for its reliability (similar to the Old Faithful geyser). It erupts every 5–10 minutes and shoots boiling water up to 20 meters in the air. After the eruption settles, it looks like a sheet of clear water surrounded by steam. Strokkur is located about 400 meters south of its less reliable but more spectacular neighbour Geysir.

There is no entrance fee to the site. People are required to follow the paths otherwise you may thread on thin crusts or other dangerous places. A visitor centre nearby has all the necessary facilities, including a camping, a hotel, a restaurant, a tourist shop and a museum with geological information and films about the area.

The Haukadalur is situated right on the number one tourist trail of the country, the so-called “Golden Circle.” Haukadalur is located 100km east of the capital and around 10km south of Gullfoss.

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We took the route from the car park and entered the geyser park, the odd vent of steam and then some spluttering from the one they affectionately call Litli-Geysir. And then, with an eruption to our right, we see the tale end of the spot. Initially, I’m disappointed, and then I remember that this geyser, Strokkur, erupts every 20 minutes or so. Despite the lousy weather, we can be patient and wait for the next performance. Cameras at the ready, we form an orderly queue, but take our eye off the geyser momentarily just at the very moment the things decides to erupt. After a time (Strokkur was performing more frequently than ever, as it was more like every 5 minutes), we sussed out the telltale signs. The water in the well hole would start to bubble, then be sucked into the hole before being blown out to form a significant dome on the well’s surface. Shortly after, a massive eruption would take place and a torrent of water and steam would be shot skyward before subsiding. Sometimes Strokkur would blow off two or three times in quick succession, and others just the once. As if to confuse the hoards of tourists gathered for the spectacle, Strokkur has no set frequency and sometimes will suck the water into the depths several times before going for the big one. It is a phenomenal sight and so impressive, you are guaranteed that a routine will be played out for your amusement.

A gentle tip – check out the wind direction before positioning yourself for a photo. We saw several visitors who failed to do the calculations – wind speed × height of eruption = trajectory + potential drenching. The resultant dousing can be significant!

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Best place to shop for touristy stuff: Handprjónasambandið

No tourist need leave this island without an authentic hand-knit Icelandic sweater thanks to the dedicated members of Handprjónasambandið. Not into sweaters? Beautifully crafted gloves, hats, and blankets make some great souvenirs too – way better than the kitschy figurine collecting dust on your mantle since your last vacation. Seriously, what were you thinking?